TWO FASCINATING WRITINGS

Two fascinating articles which appeared in The Telegraph of Calcutta, both penned by Malavika Karlekar. Never knew about them until a friend recently emailed these writings to me :

http://www.telegraphindia.com/1090927/jsp/opinion/story_11545091.jsp

http://www.telegraphindia.com/1100104/jsp/opinion/story_11935106.jsp

NOSTALGIA IN PICTURES

Here's a lovely collection of pictures showing steam engines and trains of yesteryear:


http://dreamreachout.hubpages.com/hub/Steam-Loco-Railway-Nostalgia-from-India

TRAVELLING ATOP THE JODHPUR MAIL AND OTHER STORIES

DELHI JUNCTION. Also known as Old Delhi Railway Station. DTC buses heading for this destination carry the signboard “Railway Station” while if you ask the conductor which station is meant, he will yell out Purani Dilli Station.

Once you are out of this grand old terminal you are greeted by a dismal sight. Somehow, be it summer or winter, I find the air in Delhi is always foggy, the sky a dirty orange. Once out of the station, you are surrounded by a seething mass of humanity: travellers and beggars, rich and poor, fruit sellers and pavement sweetmeat shops with their large kadahis laden with plump gulabjamuns floating in rose flavoured syrup. Delhites seem to be very fond of these gulabjamuns, as they are of chhole-bhature , fruit juice and lassi. And then there is an endless row of parked buses, slowly moving autorickshaws and cycle rickshaws, tongas. It is all hell let loose, a foretaste of the great city that lies beyond unexplored. I would rather not explore it. For some reason, leaving the station behind always invokes a painful feeling of regret; approaching the station, a feeling of relief. This is how I felt when I was twenty one. And maybe this is how you will feel too if , like me, you are a rail enthusiast.

What would you do if you were left in this place with a day’s time and a full night at your disposal? It really depends on what state you are in. If you are travelling and are tired and looking for something to eat, you are more likely to seek out the refreshment room upstairs for an evening meal, and then spread yourself in the great hall where the Ticket Collector stands, trying to get a bit of sleep before you catch your early morning train.

That refreshment room in Delhi Junction gave me my first practical lessons in railway station etiquette. I had a packet of food, maybe sandwiches, and I longed to sit at a table and munch away in peace. So I clambered up the stairs. Up there on the first floor, you find yourself in a large corridor that overlooks the grim cityscape below, lined with all kinds of waiting rooms: Ist CLASS WAITING ROOM, IInd CLASS SLEEPER WAITING ROOM, LADIES WAITING ROOM, RETIRING ROOMS. At the end of the corridor is the Refreshment Room. 


I went in carrying in my bag and sat a table and began to unpack my food packet. It is good to bring in your own food into a station restaurant I thought, where you can sit and relax, and should the need arise, order anything you please. A waiter hovering close by noticed my move and brusquely told me that I would have to eat my food elsewhere. How very rude! The rule is you can sit only if you order something for yourself, a rule that I discovered was in force in most city restaurants. 


I was left dumbfounded, but I had to obey. There was no choice in the matter. So I put away my sandwiches and instead asked the waiter to get me a glass of water—I still did not wish to order anything. A few minutes elapsed and since the glass of water hadn’t arrived I reminded the waiter. 


“There’s a water cooler right outside. You can have your drink there,” came the reply. 


I was left smarting a second time. This refreshment room is not worth a glass of water I thought, and decided never to set foot in this unhallowed place.

Later that evening I was ravenously hungry. As a student I had to economize on expenses; the refreshment room would sell stuff at fancy prices, so instead I crossed the foot-overbridge and sought out a lone platform. I strolled along the platform till I came upon a 4-wheeled thela selling aloo—puri. A row of vacant carriages was stabled on the adjoining track, there was hardly anyone around, and the old fellow manning the thela seemed polite enough. I ordered puris and a plate of aloo-curry. It was good, very good in fact. And all freshly prepared on the spot. Hot, tasty, and filling too.  A thousand times better than the delicate ‘amlette’ served by the restaurant I had left behind. I finished my plate and had a second helping. Then I paid the old man who accepted the money gratefully. He even offered me water but I chose to drink from my bottle filled up at the nearby platform tap.

If you are an enthusiast exploring the railways on foot and you wish to enjoy yourself to the full, there are at least two requisites. The first essential is to have your tummy full. My friend Dipanker once said as we sat at a table at a restaurant that you can’t enjoy a movie unless you have had a good meal first. I would go on to add that you can’t enjoy anything unless your tummy has had its share. And secondly, you should have had a full night’s rest before you embark on your adventure. The first condition concerning food is easily met. The second is not always easy to obtain, particularly during travel if you are a student working to a limited budget.

Delhi Junction is a great place, and while changing trains I often had a full day at my disposal. My friends who know about these adventures often tell me that I was a foolhardy, adventurous young guy. With a full day at my disposal, I often strolled out towards the yard, carrying with me only a few essential items in a small plastic box leaving my baggage in the station cloak room. On the east side, Delhi Junction yard has a place where I found a number of steam locomotives, always WP class, and a turntable. Further on, the lines begin to join up : 20 tracks dwindle down to 12, then 5, till you find you are on an overbridge with a roadway running below. We are now close to the Red Fort. Further on, about a kilometer away is the Yamuna bridge carrying both road and rail traffic. I trekked onwards hoping to catch a glimpse of the bridge from close quarters but a security guard stopped me on the way. He was posted at the spot to see no intruder approached the bridge on foot. I meekly asked the policeman why this rule was in force. “Oh, it is mainly because someone may do some mischief,” he replied in a fatherly tone. “And there are some who may contemplate suicide by jumping off the bridge, so no one is allowed.” I was perfectly aware of the reason, and I nodded approval. With the man around, there was no way I could get closer to the bridge. I had to return to the station.

Having to spend a full night at a railway station can be a challenging task when the minutes seem to crawl like hours, the hours like days. Once when the crowd at Old Delhi station seemed to be oppressive, even threatening, I decided to get away from it all. I bought a ticket to Faridabad where I had a friend and boarded a night train going south, hoping to spend the night at my friend’s home. 


I had time at my disposal and could do as I pleased. The Mail pulled out of Delhi and the boredom of the evening vanished, feelings of oppression gave way to delightful anticipation—like a breath of fresh air. After a brief halt at New Delhi station, we chugged by the side of Pragati Maidan with its dazzling display of lights, then on to Nizamuddin and Tughlaqabad. Faridabad was reached nearly 40 minutes later. I looked at my watch and found it was nearly 9 pm, an unearthly hour to drop into a home unannounced.

Everything was as unplanned as it was uncertain and seeing the time, I decided it was best not to call on my friend. I had been to Faridabad quite often. It was a quiet little station, with nothing in it to suggest that it served a rapidly growing industrial town. On the way to this place, I had often spotted signboards from the running train cheerfully calling attention to themselves: Escorts Limited,  Plasser (India) Limited: Manufacturers of Railway Equipment. . .  Faridabad was a region of great industrial promise but the station itself was tiny and insignificant much like a wayside station. Many folks living here and in the adjoining areas worked in Delhi, so there would be a crowd at the tiny station two times every day: in the mornings when these workers took the Palwal Shuttle going to Delhi, and in the evenings when folks returned by the same train.

The night express had deposited me here in Faridabad, and I was going to spend the night on the station itself. I was preparing to stretch myself on a bench on Platform 2 when a GRP constable came up from behind and patted me on the shoulder asking me what I was doing here. I felt worried; I rose from my seat, turned to face the man and explained the reason. The constable was understanding and did not raise any further questions. When he saw that I rose in his presence he was flattered, and advised me to make platform No. 1 my hangout for the night, close to the station entrance.  “Bhai sahab,” I asked him, “can’t I spend the night here itself?” The man had begun to move away, and turning back he said, “You can, but for security reasons, you had better shift to a place near the entrance.”

It gave a boost to my morale that a constable had shown concern for my safety. I picked up my bag and crossed the overbridge to Platform No. 1. Next to the station entrance was a tiny tea stall, and even at this hour, there were people around, so I ordered a cup for myself. Then I strolled over to where the platform canopy ended, found a comfortable bench and settled for the night.


For a rail enthusiast the idea of spending a night on a tiny station is a treat. There I was seated on a bench with nothing but the sky above me. In front were the steel rails stretching away into darkness to the right and to the left, the deserted platform I had just left behind staring back at me, red lights peeping from the distance. There is nothing here to disturb, only the roar of passing trains, the distant sound of a motor lorry as it makes its way across a roadway, the sound of the wind.

I was still seated on the bench when a young man slowly ambled towards me, and began by asking me questions. This was the last thing I wanted; I tried to shoo away the man but he was adamant. On closer look, I found that he was a young school going lad, maybe around 15 years of age, a typical Hariyanvi. The boy sat alongside and began a conversation much against my wishes. I soon discovered that he meant no harm; that he had in fact a problem he wanted to share with anyone who would care to listen.  As he gradually opened up I found that he had run away from home that day and the reason he said was that, “Mera baap mujhe gaali deta rahta hain.” His father was pretty rough mannered he said, and he couldn’t bear hearing filthy words hurled at him all the time.

There was not much I could do for the lad; we chatted for a while, and I gave him what advice I could. I could see that the boy felt relieved of his burden after he had got it all out. We soon became friends. I found he was a student studying in Std XI, maybe X. After a while I began to feel drowsy and the boy and I shared the bench for the night. When morning came, we washed at the nearby tap. I offered the boy tea and we bought our tickets by the Palwal Passenger. I was returning to Delhi with an onward journey ticket that would take me down south, but the boy got a ticket to Tughlaqabad. Where did he actually live: Tughlaqabad, or Faridabad ? I never asked him.

Old Delhi Station is in many ways a grand terminal although in beauty of appearance it may not match the Victoria Terminus of Mumbai. The station is imposing in appearance, its twin minars bespeak of grandeur, while the general atmosphere is typically railwayish. You enter the entrance gate and you find yourself amongst a mass of humanity both moving and static, each having something to do with the railway. The imposing minars poking into the sooty sky, cries of people, the smell of horses at the tonga stand, the grime and poverty all combine to proclaim RAILWAY in unmistakable terms.

New Delhi station by contrast is cleaner, but the general impression you get is that of a stupid, overcrowded place making a desperate, clownish effort to look modern, and staffed by people who are outright rude and unhelpful. Old Delhi looks like the genuine thing, New Delhi a pitiable farce.  

So then, if it is the kind of place I have made it out to be, what can you expect to find behind the scenes at New Delhi? Pretty much the same as what you find going on all over the country. I found myself one day at New Delhi station late in the morning trying to get a berth, even a seat to Lucknow by the 12 noon express going to Varanasi (can’t seem to remember the name of the train). I was told the train was full, that no seats were vacant. I strolled along Platform No. 1 till I came upon a counter with a man seated behind the desk. The signboard above read “May I Help You?” I showed the man my journey ticket and asked him if there was anything he could do to help me get a seat to Lucknow. The man shook his head. He could give me advice, but he couldn’t help me get a seat.

“But I have an unreserved ticket,” I said. “How is it like in the unreserved coach?” The man calmly replied, “It is terrible; people travel in this coach packed in like sheep!”

This was all that the man could do for me, telling me of the terrors that awaited me in the general compartment. I really don't blame him. I went over to Platform 3 and waited for the train to be shunted in. As I strolled towards the end of the platform,  I came upon a group of men discussing something about a seat being available only for Rs 2. I walked up to them and asked them what they meant about a seat being available. One of them said, “The train going to Varanasi is still in the yard. If you go there now you can get a seat for yourself in the general coach.”

It was great news indeed. I picked up my bag, filled up my bottle and strolled along into the sidings where an engine had just attached itself to the vacant train. And sure enough, next to the unreserved bogie there stood a man admitting passengers one by one clandestinely. “How much for a seat?” I asked the man. “Only 2 rupees,” he said. I gave him the coins and climbed in. Gradually, we were joined by others till finally, an hour later, when the train was shunted out , the coach was full, each person occupying a seat. We shunted into the platform. And then came the deluge. There were nearly a hundred or more people who burst into the carriage like a flood, men, women, children, baggage, people who had waited at the platform knowing nothing of our kindly railwayman who had made it his business to provide seats in advance to desperate folks like me for a small fee.

Amongst the crowd was an elderly woman who waddled towards me, preceded by her young girl. The woman could only find a place on the floor for herself, but seeing me, she announced in a loud voice, “Beta, bhai sahab ke paas baith jao” (My girl, sit by the side of that gent over there). The little girl obeyed while the mother sat on the floor beside me. They were bound for Bareilly, so for the next 7 hours or so, I had the company of the little mite who sat meekly beside me.

But let us return to Old Delhi Junction, for this is the place which provided me with most of my railway adventures in the late seventies. Delhi station yard is a fascinating place. Towards the east of the station, the line leads towards the Yamuna, while on the west side I found a pair of Tourist Cars coupled together and parked in a siding—longish windows like you had in Ist Class, and an oval darkened glass on each door. The west side of the station is also where the meter gauge line commences going down south towards Rajasthan. And so quite expectedly you would find Rajasthani folks at this end of the station in large numbers—men in turbans smoking biris, women in colorful swirling skirts, all speaking in a tongue foreign to me. The meter gauge yard was hardly worth its name, just a few lines to receive trains, and run-around loops for engines. The big names in those days were the Bikaner Express, then the Jodhpur Mail and others. There were passenger trains going down south as far as Mehsana in Gujarat.

A few days back I received a picture from a friend showing an overcrowded train with people perched on the rooftop. Lovely picture. It brings back memories of the early 1980s when I used to travel from Delhi towards Punjab where my sister was studying. I also had friends in Haryana, so I would travel south taking the Jodhpur Mail from Old Delhi station. The Mail left Delhi at around 8 or 9 pm in the night. From Delhi to Sadulpur is a run of about 5-6 hours, and I would get into the Sleeper coach without reservation. But the train was always full, and eventually when Gurgaon came, about an hour later, the conductor would ask me to get off the coach. So there I was, with my bag slung around my shoulder, walking the length of the sparsely crowded platform looking for a place on the Jodhpur Mail.

Gurgaon in those days was not the kind of savvy, hi-tech place it is now. It was a mere village on the outskirts of Delhi. There were also regular bus services from Delhi to this village. The platform was reasonably well lighted, and I would walk around desperately looking for a place for myself. Mean looking conductors ensured that I did not gain admittance into Sleeper coaches, and the unreserved coaches—a few in number—were all full with village folks sitting on the floor, having locked all doors from within. I walked up to the head of the train and found a villager next to the door, sitting by the window. “Please bhai-sahab, let me in,” I pleaded. “I have only to go to Sadulpur, just 4 - 5 hours away." And the villagers sitting inside next to the door calmly told me that as there was no place within, there was no use in opening the door to let me in. So get moving, this is what they meant. I panicked and walked to the rear end of the train. The last few coaches stood beyond the platform where it was dark. And then I remembered a sight that I had seen so often: villagers sitting atop the train, travelling to their destination without a care in the world. If they can do this, why can’t I do the same, I reasoned. And so without further ado, I slipped between two carriages, and climbed the steps and the next moment found myself on the top. From then onwards the journey was a pleasant one. The train whistled and moved on. Gurgaon was left behind, then onto Mahendragarh where the train did not halt, Loharu, and finally Sadulpur at about 3 O’clock in the morning.

If you are wondering how all this came to pass, let me tell you that in the 1980s and earlier, the line from Delhi going towards Rajasthan was meter gauge. You don’t need to be Superman to travel on the rooftop of a train. On passenger trains in Rajasthan, village folk often get on to the top of the carriage because down below it is often crowded, stuffy, and unbearably hot. So taking a hint from village folk, I would often get atop the train enjoying the breeze, and the feeling you get of absolute freedom. In those parts, train conductors and station staff don’t mind if a person is travelling atop. It was an accepted part of railway culture with no one venturing to offer opposition.  It was a common thing that occurred every day. Sure it is dangerous practice, but for those who are prepared to take the risk, it is a great experience: you enjoy the breeze, the clickety-clack of the wheels is subdued, and you feel you are the absolute master of your destiny. You feel as if you are on top of the world.

Rooftop travel is not a new thing in Rajasthan. Villagers often get on to the top of trains , even buses. My rooftop travels in Rajasthan were mostly on slow passenger trains, during the evenings, just once atop the Jodhpur Mail at night. Once I was going from Sadulpur back to Delhi on rooftop. It was a night passenger train, and most villagers on top got off at Mahendragarh, a tiny station. I decided to stay on. At Rewari, only a few of these simple folks were with me at the top. It was again a night train. From Rewari to Delhi is about an hour’s run. As we neared Delhi, I kept sitting on the top till we reached Delhi Cantonment station, early in the morning while it was still dark. Then after a brief halt the train pulled out of the Cantonment. It must have been around 4 am, and a man hanging around the railway yard spotted me from a distance. He was distressed and called out “aage bijli ki taar” (Over head electric wires ahead -- watch out!!). I knew already that as the train reaches Delhi, the meter gauge line crossed the broad gauge in several diamond crossings, and that the broad gauge was fully electrified. I therefore paid no heed to the man's warning. I knew what was ahead, and was prepared for it. A few minutes later, I slung my bag on my shoulder, and climbed down the ladder like thing on the coach side while the train was still running. In this position, I was effectively standing between two carriages on the ladder, with the top of my head flush with the carriage top. That is the common sense thing to do if you know there is an OHE or a bridge ahead and you value your life. Soon enough the train trundled into Delhi Junction yard and we passed under those overhead electric traction wires. This was the usual practice I followed. At Delhi Junction passengers began to pour out of their carriages, tired and sweating, while I calmly climbed all the way down and stepped onto the platform.
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Ravindra Bhalerao

AN EVENING WITH ANOOP JHINGRON

THIS INVITING PICTURE SHOWS a view of the Western Railway Heritage Gallery at Churchgate headquarters in Bombay. Within the gallery lie an assortment of artefacts as old the railway itself—dinner plates and spoons, stations bells, emblems, antique railway instruments, each having played a role in a bygone age that has slipped into history. Meet Shri Anoop Krishna Jhingron, the man who conceived the idea of this priceless collection and carried it to fruition. Shri Jhingron is in many ways the quintessential railwayman: tall, athletic, full of interesting stories, and with a resounding voice and forceful personality. Had he lived a few generations ago, he would have been known to us as the Agent of the BB&CI Railway. But Shri Jhingron is here with us, and is going to tell us about himself, his ideas and the railways he has served all his life. Since his retirement in 2008 he has lived a quiet life staying with his family in his home not far from Delhi. Although retired from service, Jhingron saab is yet to retire from life; he loves to travel, attends functions, and much of his time is spent in his personal library browsing through books, researching details in archives, and contributing to journals and periodicals. What makes him so special for us is his unflagging commitment to the cause of railway heritage and its preservation. Having authored two highly acclaimed works—one on postal stamps, the other on Western Railway Heritage—Jhingron is now working on a new project, a book titled ‘Life in Railway Colonies.’ Read on to find out more about this fascinating person, his work, and his enduring affair with the railways of India and its heritage.

Shri Anoop K. Jhingron

Ravindra Bhalerao: People who have met you in person are known to comment that even after having crossed the three-score mark in life, you continue to exhibit something of the personality of a sportsman—that you refuse to grow old.

Shri Anoop K. Jhingron: I used to play cricket and badminton and was a good player. I tried my hands at table tennis and lawn tennis but was a damp squib in both. I was deprived of football by the ill advice of a doctor during childhood, who wrongly suspected a defective valve in my heart and advised my parents not to let me play football. I have played cricket till as late as 2005. However my play was not good enough to be beyond club level.

        Although now I do not play games, but I love to watch games, live as well as on T.V. However I imbibed sportsman spirit and always believed in a sense of fair play throughout. I also love to interact and associate with youth. This keeps me young in spirits.

Your career with the Indian Railways has spanned several decades finally culminating in the office of General Manager of the Western Railway. It must have been an exciting, a truly enriching experience.

        My career with the railways has been an enriching and rewarding experience. I have thoroughly enjoyed my thirty seven year’s active association with railways. Although initially some of my senior colleagues discouraged me about life in railways and I had trepidations in my mind, but I have never even for a moment regretted my decision to have a career with railways.

        Railways gave me an opportunity to work at and visit different places. I have had posting in several states. I have been posted in Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Bihar, Gujarat, Maharashtra, J&K, and Jharkhand. In addition I spent about two years in West Bengal during my probation. I had varying spells of   continuous stay at different places—the longest being six and a half years at Ahmedabad and shortest being eighteen days at Jammu.

        The frequent transfers did affect the education of my sons. However once I got them admitted to Central Schools even this problem was taken care of.
        The posting which I enjoyed most were at Bikaner, Allahabad, Vadodara, and Chakradharpur (where I worked as DRM). Of course the last posting, as G.M. of Western Railway was memorable in several ways.

What made you opt for railways as a career?

        As a child I was fascinated by railways. The Howrah-Delhi trunk route used to pass very near the place where we used to stay in Allahabad. We often used to pass through the railway colonies nearby. The colonies with their beautiful and charming bungalows with lovely flowering gardens, tiled roofs and fences covered by the railway creepers definitely had a charm and attraction of their own. Many of my classmates at school were the children of railway men .I used to notice them wearing navy blue coloured coats and trousers, which they proudly used to tell ,were made from the spare uniforms of their parents. Perhaps the temptation of the dress stayed at the back of the mind.

        Opting for IRTS was a decision taken, after my selection for the central services through the IAS  examination, in consultation with several senior relatives who were working in government jobs and told me that IRTS offered very good career prospects. But perhaps the factors mentioned above also played their role.

Tell us about your boyhood days.

        I spent my boy hood in Allahabad. My father was a journalist and we used to stay in the housing area of the press from where the news paper used to be published. This was known as Leader Press. There were about fifty odd families residing, so there were a large number of children. We used to play ballgames and a lot of traditional games like hide-and-seek, gilli danda, marbles, kabaddi etc.  Now, I have lost touch with most of my boyhood friends except a few.

        At home I received lot of affection and love of my family as I was nine year younger to my brother and a sister was born when I was six years old.  My first schools were located close to our home and we used to walk down to the school. Two of my teachers I used to meet even after I grew up and worked with railways.

And you were of course fond of sports and games in those days.

        Yes. I used to play badminton and cricket, but I was not good enough to make it to the college team.

When did you first discover your fascination for trains?

        Back in Allahabad our home was close to the Howrah - Delhi line. Therefore the noise of the train particularly the whistles of different types of steam locos were a great attraction. I still remember one day we heard a strange whistle sound. We became curious about it and spent some time by the side of the railtrack waiting for the sound, Finally after waiting for an hour or so we heard the same sound and found that it was the whistle of a new type of loco hauling a fast passenger carrying train. Somebody said “It is a Canadian Engine”. We children used to call it “bhonpu wala engine” (later I came to know them as the WP class of locos). Perhaps this was the first time railways fascinated me.

        Allahabad Junction Station was also not very far from our home. My father used to often go to station to buy some magazine etc. from the Wheeler’s book stall and we often went on the platform. I still vividly recall that one day I saw the  Guard of a train, perhaps Kalka - Howrah Mail, on the platform. He was looking very impressive in his white uniform, peak cap, cross belt, and shining boots. I noticed that when he blew his whistle the train started moving. I was extremely impressed by his ‘power’ and decided that I will become a Guard, when I grow up.

        I liked to stand near the level crossing gate and watch passing trains. It was in late fifties that trains started to be hauled by diesel locomotives. Their appearance and their whistle sound was totally different. Diesel hauled trains were an object of fascination and I along with some other boys used to watch these locos almost daily.

Your parents were probably worried over this strange hobby of yours.

        When they came to know that we visit the level crossing almost daily, they were worried a little about my safety as it involved crossing two roads. They only cautioned me to be careful, but never discouraged me. 

So you finally joined the railways in the officer cadre. Your induction into the Indian Railway Traffic Service will have been followed by extensive training to familiarise you with the railways and its working.

Railway Officers Training Center,
Asansol 

        We had a training schedule of two years covering theoretical as well as practical training. When we were appointed, we were asked to report to the office of the General Manager, Eastern Railway at Calcutta. On the very day we joined, we were dispatched to Asansol. At Asansol a centralized training institute known as Railway Officers Training Center (ROTC) had been set up, due to the efforts of Mr M S Gujral, a legendary railwayman, erstwhile Divisional Superintendent of Asansol. The institute was located in a beautiful bungalow which used to be the residence of the DS. The building had been modified so as to be able to accommodate twenty odd probationers. We had been allotted different zonal railways, but had our training together.

        Our training started within a day with hands on training. In the first phase of training we learnt the job of a goods train Guard. Batches of two probationers were formed and they were required to accompany the Guards working different types of goods trains. We worked along with guards working ‘Cracks’, yard-to-yard goods trains, slow trains stopping and shunting at wayside stations, coal pilots, industrial pilots, and others.

At the Zonal Railway Training Center, Dhanbad.
Shri Jhingron seated 2nd from left ; standing 6th
from left is Mr K C Jena who rose to become
Chairman of the Railway Board, New Delhi

        In the later phases we learnt the working of yards, stations, signal cabins, goods sheds, parcel offices, booking office, etc. Initially we watched the working and later we also worked independently in these places. Some curious incidents took place during our hands on training. While working as the guard of a passenger train one of our batch mates was offered some tips (cash) after a few baskets of fish were loaded. He refused it with politeness. On the other hand when a similar situation arose with me while working in a parcel office at Raniganj, I reacted a bit strongly with indignation.

        We had theoretical training at different places. We participated in a three month long foundation course at the National Academy of Administration (now the Lal Bahadur Shastri Academy of Administration) in Mussoorie, with officers of other all-India services, including senior batch IAS probationers. We also attended two training sessions at the Railway Staff College, Baroda. The foundation course was of three months duration with officers of other railway services, and a two and a half months induction course exclusively for IRTS probationers.

        We also attended a three months training schedule at the Zonal Training Center located in Dhanbad (Jharkhand) learning different parts of railway operations.

        The last stage of our training was office training which included learning the working of Division office for one month and then Headquarters office for three months. The training schedule was a little tough but it could make most of us thorough in our work. The training had lighter schedules as well, like a visit to Kolkata, Mumbai, and the course at the NAA, Mussoorie. As part of my HQ training, I also visited Srinagar to learn the working of an out-agency.

Shri Jhingron (center) with probationers at the National
Academy of Administration, Mussoorie, in 1972

        The training at Mussoorie was thorough and proved to be very useful. Besides developing officer-like qualities in probationers, it also led to the formation of lifelong bonds with our brother officers of other services which was of immense help in our service career.

You have been a heritage buff all along. What makes railway heritage an object of special affection for you?

        Even while young, I visited several museums along with my parents . Later on my own I
visited various museum but could not find any Railway artifacts there. Once while on way to Guwahati, at Jamalpur yard, I saw what appeared to be a graveyard of steam locos. There were dozens of locos lying in various stages of disrepair, perhaps waiting to be sold as scrap. At that time I felt the need for preservation of railway heritage.  When I visited UK in late

Shri Jhingron (left) beside the Patiala State
 Monorail at the NRM, Delhi

eighties, I saw at York museum and elsewhere the importance given to preservation of railway heritage.

        Early in the 1980s while on an inspection of a station in Bikaner division I came upon an antique wall clock, on the point of disposal, manufactured by John Walker & Co. of London. I was pleased with the discovery. I salvaged the clock and had it sent to headquarters office where it is now displayed. This was my first attempt in this direction. Later when I was working as DRM at Chakradharpur on South Eastern Railway I noticed an old Narrow Gauge steam loco almost buried under ashes at a private siding. We retrieved it and brought it the Divisional HQ, repaired it and put the ninety year old loco on display. Since then it has become a sort of passion with me and I have tried to do whatever little I could do to preserve the railway heritage of our country.

Overseas, in the UK, Australia and elsewhere, heritage railways are big business. It is a pleasure to read the brochures these railways issue, telling us of regular time-tabled steam runs, holiday specials, and mouthwatering cuisine served aboard. Something of a similar kind, and maybe on the same scale could have been done here in India. Pity we are left far behind in this area.

        Oh yes, the enthusiasm about rail heritage seen abroad is really great. Not only a large number of heritage railways are being heavily patronized but even things like a trolley  drive on an old abandoned railway line or a heritage walk on the alignment of an old uprooted line are extremely popular. In Australia such railway trail heritage walks are being promoted in a big way.

        In India I have not seen a great enthusiasm for heritage in general. We have seen that a large number of heritage structures are lying without any care and are gradually decaying. In Delhi several such heritage structures have vanished during last century.

        Whatever preservation efforts are made in India they are basically undertaken by either government organisations or such organisations which are supported by government. Whereas abroad generally the efforts are being made by voluntary bodies, being run totally with help of dedicated volunteers. Hence whereas  preservation efforts abroad, particularly railway preservation, is basically a  people’s movement, in India it is not so. Hence the apathy. In addition perhaps there are so many other problems that people hardly have time to spare for finer things like preservation.

        Another unfortunate factor in India is the sad fact that rolling stock heritage has been perceived as a source for generating additional resources by way of selling them as scrap. This has resulted in loss of historical rolling stock heritage. Sindh, the loco used for hauling India’s first train was sold as scrap. Similar fate was met by the special carriages in which the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi and Pandit Nehru were carried to Allahabad for immersion at Sangam. 
        However the recent enthusiasm generated after grant of World Heritage status to the mountain railways and Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus has kindled new hopes and I see the movement picking up in India.

You have researched the heritage railways of Australia and other places. Did you come across any feature of remarkable interest on these railways you would like to tell us about?
        The best part of the heritage railways noticed abroad is that most of them are run totally

Shri and Smt Jhingron at the New York
Grand Central Station

with the help of volunteers coming from all walks of life. The only common thread running with them is the fact that they all love and take pride in their railway heritage. Services are run based on the convenience and choice of passengers. They run specials exclusively for children too. On such occasions, the steam engine is given the appearance of a railwayman called "Thomas-the Engine." On Easter and Christmas eve, festival specials with lots of fun aboard are organized. In Australia I have come across Moonlight Specials and Dance and Dine Specials. They are extremely popular and are always full to capacity. Gourmet food served on board these trains is a big draw.
        In the UK and other places, heritage railways together with their souvenir shops, museums and the trains themselves receive a lot of publicity which draws people in large numbers. Unfortunately this is lacking here in India. How many tourists visiting big cities are aware of the railway heritage galleries in Churchgate and CSTM in Mumbai, or the Narrow Gauge Museum at Nagpur, or even the regional railway museums at Howrah or Mysore? We need to learn a good deal from the methods adopted abroad.

The Fairy Queen, Guinness record holder of being the oldest working steam loco in the world was in the news recently. It is tragic to hear of someone who comes along and carries off the shiny brass dome, the steam whistle and other parts.

        I could not agree more with you. Perhaps earning a few extra bucks was a bigger consideration for the vandal. However it appears to me due to the general apathy towards our heritage.

The Western Railway Heritage Gallery in Churchgate is a miniature museum in itself. How did you manage to collect all these exhibits?

The Western Railway Heritage Gallery
at Churchgate Headquarters, Mumbai

During the course of my earlier stints on western railway I had seen a large number of artifacts lying all over the system. On western railway there were a few spirited individuals, prominent among them being Shri Chauhan , a mechanical engineer, who had started salvaging them and storing them. Small heritage galleries were also set up at different places. When we decided to set up the heritage gallery at Churchgate, I and my team visited numerous places and selected and picked up heritage artifacts and requested the local authorities to send them to HQ for display in the heritage gallery and thus the collection was built up. In this direction the contribution by the DRMs of Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Bhavnagar and Ratlam was immense.

A close-up of an artefact in the gallery

Some initial hiccups were faced in setting the gallery which led two about three month’s delay in its inauguration. The renovation of the hall took more time. At the centre of the hall a pillar stood which had plastered surface. When the plaster was removed we found layers of paint below. The layers had to be burnt to reach the original surface. But the toil was worth it. Ultimately we found the steel pillar in its original form, with a shining surface and ornate design at the top and the bottom.

        For display the logos of the former railways which were merged in the erstwhile BB&CI and its inheritor Western Railway, we had to search for a die maker who could make metallic logos. This also took a lot of time, but this also was worth it.
        A special display in the gallery is a hand grenade used during 1962 China war. It was

A steam engine model at the gallery in Churchgate

 manufactured at Western Railway’s Dahod workshop. In fact Dahod workshop manufactured the grenades for a long time. The photographs, building plans and other models and equipments put on display deserve to be viewed with interest as they unfold the story of a great railway. My only regret is that the gallery has not received right kind of publicity and is not as popular amongst visitors as it should be.

You are a Post-graduate in History. Armed with this specialized background have you ever thought of working on a book on railway history?

        My book on Western railway’s heritage does cover the history of the railway. However this is a good suggestion and needs consideration. It has been my desire to update J.N.Sawhney’s great work “Indian Railways One Hundred Years” so as to cover the next fifty years development on the Indian railways. Incidentally my proposed book on Life in Railway Colonies will be covering an important aspect of the railway’s social history.


. . . . Continued below
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AN EVENING WITH ANOOP JHINGRON (Contd.)

Continued from previous post
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Tell us about your book on postal stamps. Does it tell a story?

I have written two books on Indian postage stamps. The first book “Daak Tikaton kaa Safar: Railway par Vishesh Nazar” was published in 2008. My second book is likely to be published in 2012.Both the books deal in detail about Indian stamps issued on different themes. However in both the books the evolution of the postal system, in the world in general and in India in particular has been discussed at length. Thus it does tell a story. However readers will also find several small stories and anecdotes about various themes and personalities in the books.

And now you are at work on a new project, we are told, with railway life as its theme.

 Yes, for the past some time I have been working on this project. This is intended to cover an important aspect of the railways, i.e., the life in railway colonies in India. The subject is vast and not much work has been done in the field. Hence it is a time consuming project. It not only involves research in archives and libraries but also visits to various important railway colonies all over the country. Hence the completion of the project will take some more time.

Did you ever ride the footplate of a locomotive?

During my service span of approximately thirty seven years I have travelled on footplate of locomotives on innumerable occasions. Right from steam loco hauled freight trains working in collieries and industrial pilots to state of art electric locomotives on Rajdhani Express trains, I have footplated on numerous  types of locomotives.


What were your impressions of steam engine drivers? Many of us rail enthusiasts have enormous respect for these men. 
          I found the steam engine drivers of our country to be a dedicated and disciplined lot. These qualities continued with them even after they graduated from steam to diesel and later to electric locomotives.
          The steam drivers appeared to be in love with their iron horses. There was a time when the best drivers used to have dedicated steam engines, which were driven exclusively by their team. The drivers and the firemen used to devote a lot of time to ensure proper maintenance of the locomotives. They would spend time in locosheds to see that locos were given proper attention. Even during run the team would devote time in oiling and cleaning of locos. They were so punctilious that it was sometimes difficult to find even a spec of coal dust once the loco had a stopover.
          In those days steam locos hauling prominent trains were given names. In the initial years of my service I have seen Punjab Mail from Bombay VT to Ferozepur being hauled by two locos : “Jhansi ki Rani” and “Veer Bundela” of Jhansi loco sheds. Jodhpur shed used to have “Vir Durgadas” and “Ran Baanka Rathod” and even till eighties I have come across “Hemu Bakkaal” (named after Hemchandra, the general who fought Akbar in the second battle of Panipat) of Sarai Rohilla loco shed.
          These drivers used to observe rules religiously. I remember an incident when four officers, including the Chief Electrical Engineer (CEE) and the Divisional Railway Manager (DRM) were trying to board the electric loco hauling Howrah-Kalka Mail at Kanpur. The driver who was an old steam hand politely enquired, “which two of you gentlemen would be footplating with us? The other two gentlemen may either go to the rear cab or to the train compartment.” On the footplate of a super fast train only two people are permitted in addition to the crew. The result was that only the CEE and DRM went on the footplate and other two officers went back to their compartment. Now a days you will not find persons who would be such sticklers to rules even at the cost of annoying their superiors. My hats off to such a breed of railwaymen!

There are many rail enthusiasts who dream of the day when they will travel in an officers inspection carriage. Did you go on inspection tours often?

Normally the name Inspection Car conjures up an image of travelling in a fabulous carriage almost like saloons of maharajas. However this is far from the truth. One starts getting the facility of bigger inspection cars with better facilities only after spending a substantial part of career .In the initial years one may or may not get the facility of inspection carriages. Even if available, it may not be comfortable.

In my initial years we were entitled to travel in small four wheeled inspection carriages. These were not capable of travelling at higher speeds and were invariably attached to either slow passenger trains or freight trains. Their riding quality was far from satisfactory and the rides were generally bumpy. Having a cup of tea while travelling was a challenging job. However, comfortable or not, travelling by the inspection carriages was often a necessity, as one had to often visit such stations or work sites where no facilities for staying or food were available. In such situations, the stay in the inspection carriage made the basics requirements easily available.

Travelling by inspection carriages was an interesting experience. Normally the carriages were attached as the last vehicle on the trains. The officer travelling would sit at the trailing end of the carriage in front of a window and would conduct a “Window Trailing” inspection to see the condition of the track and other fixtures like signals, condition of points and crossings, bridges and the alertness of the staff.

           The inspection carriages provided to the senior grade officers are provided with better facilities, are more accomodatious and travel smoothly even at higher speeds. Some consolation for advancing age! 


Speaking of inspection carriages, tell us something about station inspections. What does the job involve?
          There are various types of station inspections conducted by traffic officials. They can be categorised as Surprise Inspections, Casual Inspections, Night Inspections, Detailed Inspections and so on.
          A surprise inspection has to have the element of surprise. Hence the inspecting official arrives unannounced at the station either by a road vehicle or by a goods train. The purpose is to see the true condition of the work and staff alertness.
         A night inspection is generally conducted between 1.30 to 4.00 am as this is the time when people generally feel sleepy. Hence this is the appropriate time to check the alertness of staff and also whether rules are being followed or not. For this type of inspection the official arrives generally by road or by goods trains. During night inspections, besides the station, level crossing gates and cabins are also inspected.
          A casual inspection is conducted when the inspecting official does not have time to have a detailed check and inspects few selected items for checking. A detailed inspection on the other hand is conducted at a fixed interval which may range from once a quarter to once a year. During such type of inspection a detailed check of all the important aspects of station working is conducted. This entails inspecting the Station Master's office, the cabins, yard, goods shed, passenger amenities, booking office, parcel office, running rooms and stores etc. Since all details are checked sometimes it may extend over two or three days, particularly in case of bigger stations.
          During the inspection the official must also look into the problems of the staff working at the station and try to help them.
          Generally there are no problems of logistics in case of short duration inspections like surprise, night or casual inspections. However, in case of detailed inspections involving night stays at a station such problems can arise. In such situations either one uses an inspection carriage or stays in a rest house. In either situation food etc can be prepared by the attendant. However at such stations where either there is no facility for placement of carriage or there is no rest house, one can stay at some nearby station where a rest house is available and make the station as base for inspecting nearby stations.
          Normally an inspecting official is accompanied by a senior supervisor, who assists in conducting the inspection or collecting various details. After the inspection, an inspection note must be sent within shortest possible time.

We in India appear to have arrived late on the railway heritage preservation scene. What, in your view, needs to be done further in this area of endeavour?

Even for general public a sense of pride for our rich heritage needs to be developed. Lessons in the text books and organizing visits to places of heritage value and museums by the schools would be of help. Similar exercises could also be undertaken for railway heritage. Visits to railway museums by school children in New Delhi have been able to create interest about railway heritage in young minds.

Even the officers of Indian railways need to be sensitized about railway heritage. Organizing courses at Railway Staff College and other institutions can be of immense help. Awareness campaigns about rail heritage can also be launched.

Ever travelled up the hills on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, or maybe the DHR?

I have not been able to visit the Nilgiri railways, but I have been lucky to travel over DHR, Kalka-Simla railway and Matheran Light railway, Kottavalasa –Kirandul  route, and a few mountain railways in Europe.

            Travel on these hill sections unfolds the beautiful panorama before your eyes. Travel over Kalka-Simla section with its arch bridges (reminding one of Roman aqueducts), its 100 plus tunnels, sharp curves, beautiful scenery and not the least, the lovely restaurant at Barog is a unique experience. Travelling on the footplate of a locomotive on a hill railway line can be an unforgettable experience. 


One of the finest marvels of miniature railway engineering, the Darjeeling Hill Railway is regarded universally as the prettiest toy train the world ever saw. And yet this fascinating railway fails to attract tourists in large numbers as one might expect. Could you suggest innovations that would go to make the DHR a bustling tourist attraction?
          The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is not only the finest example of a hill railway in India, but one of the oldest hill railways in the world. It can rank amongst the best hill railways in the world.
          Unfortunately in our country a railway line, even DHR, is not treated as part of the itinerary of a tourist. It only a means to reach the place of tourism—in this case Darjeeling. The tourists are in a hurry to reach the destination. The hill train takes much longer time to cover the distance between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling, whereas the road running almost parallel to the track happens to be quicker. Hence unless a traveler happens to be a diehard railfan, the road is the preferred mode of transport.
          For attracting the tourists to the train, perhaps the trip time has to be reduced. Besides travel, the train should offer other attractions. Attaching a restaurant car selling tasty food items, a souvenir shop on board and better comfortable coaches could enhance the attraction.
          Presently a steam hauled train runs a short trip from Darjeeling to Ghoom and back. This is able to attract tourists. Perhaps introducing one or two more such trips daily may be of help.
          Some people, including a heritage lover have also suggested that only a small portion of DHR should be kept operational as a heritage railway and rest may be considered for closure. However I feel sad to see the decline in popularity of DHR amongst tourists.

How do you spend your hours of leisure ; do you read fiction, listen to music, chat with friends. . . ?

I am lucky to have cultivated a few hobbies. Pursuing my hobbies of stamps collection, photography, and listening to music keeps me sufficiently busy. I am fond of reading. Over the years I have been able to build a personal library of about eight to nine hundred books. Besides I keep writing articles. My reading and writing habits also keep me busy.

I travel as well. Visiting my sons, other relatives and seeing new places takes me out on travel frequently.

You do not seem to be the kind of person who will watch movies, but I could be wrong.

        I love old Hindi movies, and ever since I was in college, Devanand has been my favourite actor. Once while in university, our Professor asked us in class who was our favourite hero. I rose and mentioned Dev saab without the slightest hesitation. I have watched ever so many of these classic Hindi movies. It was my childhood ambition to meet Dev saab, but it was only some forty years later when I was posted to Bombay that my wish could come true. It was a great experience having a word with the legendary actor. Devanand offered us tea, and even presented me a signed copy of his autobiography titled “Romancing with Life.” Some years back, I even had the chance of meeting filmstar of yesteryear Waheeda Rehman at a function held in Bombay. It was a great experience.


Any parting words for the railwaymen of our country . . .
        Take pride in your work and the organization. Our railways had a great past ; let there be even a greater future. Railways have been under threat on several occasions and have come out with flying colours every time. The poet Iqbal had said about India – “Kuchh baat hai ki hasti mitati nahin hamaari, sadiyon raha hai dushman daure zamaan hamara”. The same is true of Indian Railways.

Well observed. Thank you so much Jhingron Saab, it has been so nice having a chat with you. We wish you all success, and the best in health and happiness too.

                        Thank you Shri Bhalerao, I have enjoyed this chance to share my views. And thanks a lot for your best wishes.
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Pictures courtesy of Shri A. K. Jhingron

COMMENTS ON THIS POST:

Dr Ardeshir B. Damania from Davis, California, USA wrote on 1 February 2012:

I have read with great interest the interview with Anoop Jhingron who retired in 2008 as G.M. of Western Railway, Mumbai. Recollections of such men should be recorded on video, not only for the enjoyment of the public but also for the archives of their survivors who may one day come to treasure such recordings.

I am very glad that Shri Jhingron has set up a heritage museum at the Churchgate HQ of the Western Railway. I would like to donate my uncle, Shri Dorabji M. Damania’s guard’s whistle to the Museum if they do not have one already. The whistle is made in England of course and is from the 1920s.

I was amused to read about Shri Jhingron’s first acquaintance with the Canadian WP locomotive which was capable of sustained speed of 100 mph (on a test run in Canada it touched 120 mph briefly). When these engines first came to India on steamers, my father took me to Bombay Central to see one of them. My father said that they were imported from Canada and he called them “the Bhon engines” because of the strange sounding whistle that was in use all over North America as compared to the whistle of the black steam engines we were used to until then all over India. The engines also had a more colorful paint scheme than just all black. The Canadian engines were first used exclusively on long distance passenger trains like the Frontier Mail (see attached picture). Since the Frontier Mail made very few

The Frontier Mail leaving Ballard
Pier Station

stops and ran at top speed the crew included two firemen. The firemen took turns. One fireman took rest while the other fed the boiler constantly with coal from the bunker. I was told by my father that strict disciplinarian drivers would not hesitate to hit the fireman if the steam pressure fell below a certain level which would affect the speed! The only stops that were needed were for taking on water.

Shri Jhingron will also recall that the first diesel locomotives came as gifts from the United States. They too had a new sounding klaxon. Both the Canadian steam WP engines and the diesels were later produced in India, perhaps at the Chittaranjan Locomotive Works. I was once allowed to ride late at night on a WG black steam loco in May 1964 somewhere on the Southern Railway section. It was a memorable experience. The boy in me would still love to ride in the cabin of the locomotive on one of these Rajdhani expresses.

It is sad that, not only in the case of railways, but also in other spheres, heritage is not taken seriously. Much to my regret the present generation has very little idea of how things worked in the bygone days. We need champions like Shri Anoop Jhingron to save our heritage for posterity. I would like to inform Shri Jhingron that I will visit the Museum at Churchgate at the next available opportunity on my next visit to India.

Best wishes and keep up the good work! It is much appreciated. 
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Dr. Kalpana Sarkar said on 15 February 2012:

This is a tremendously interesting piece of entertainment, a behind-the-scenes peek at the life and work of a great man. I collected stamps and vintage books myself, but that was ages ago; a heritage museum containing railway memorabilia is something new, yet so fascinating. This is the story of a person who is ever enthusiastic over the great adventure of life, keeping on with reading, writing and other pursuits. Shri Jhingron’s passion and dedication are truly remarkable; one rarely comes across such a talented person like him. I wish him all the best.

THE WORLD'S LARGEST TRACTION SPAN

THE WORLD'S LARGEST traction span running into nearly 129 feet was erected near Sion station in Mumbai in 1925. Now this overhead structure is shortly going to be demolished. Rajendra Aklekar, reports:

THE G I P RAILWAY MURDER CASE

Read about the G I P Railway Murder Case on this page.

BRITISH-ERA SIGNAL CABINS

Another masterly piece of research by RAJENDRA AKLEKAR, telling us about an early signal cabin in Dadar. Just look at the upper right hand picture; you can almost see cabinmen high up in this signalbox grabbing those levers and pulling with all their might, the clang--thud, and the points are reset for a train to pass. A steam train, of course. But that was a long, long time ago.  Thank you so much Raj. We look forward to more such contributions from you !!

BANGALORE'S FIRST TRAIN

Here’s an interesting bit of history sent in by Dr A. B. Damania telling us how the railway first came to Bangalore. We are told that a dedicated Magneto phone was in use on stations in those days without a number dialling facility on it. It would be great if any such phone could be found lurking around in some museum or railway heritage gallery ; if anyone comes upon such a thing, do tell us about it. And now over to Dr Damania . . .

Bangalore’s first train had a steam engine for its loco, and ran between Cantonment station and Jolarpettai in what is now Vellore district of Tamil Nadu, beginning 1864. The first train was called Bangalore Mail and was run by Madras Railway, one of the dozen or so companies incorporated to develop a railway network in British India.

The city’s first railway link to the outside world was a meter gauge line and 149 kms long. Cantonment station, where one end of the link lay, had two platforms on either side.

The backbone of the service was not only the narrow gauge line but also the non-dialling Magneto phone for communication between stations. A dedicated line of sorts, the phone was widely used by the railways in those days and had neither a dial nor a number pad. If a user at one end rotated the handle, it would ring at the other end.

The Cantonment—Jolarpettai railway line was extended to Bangalore City station 18 years later. The earliest route catered to by the City station was Bangalore Mysore. While the Cantonment—City link was serviced by Madras Railway, the other services from the City station were operated by the Mysore State Railway. Two years later, in 1884, Bangalore City—Tumkur—Gubbi services began operating and in 1889, the line was extended upto Harihar.

Dr. A. B. Damania 

GENE BLANCHETTE'S BLOG

ARVIND BALIGA has sent in a link to a lovely site where you will find material on the Raj, as well as the Railways of the Raj . . . . Turn to the following page and enjoy yourselves:

 http://geneblanchette.wordpress.com/category/railways/